When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.
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